MANILA, Philippines—Save the ludong.
The Department of Agriculture (DA) has raised the alarm on the dwindling number of ludong, a species of mullet considered to be the country’s most expensive fish.
Ludong (scientific name Cestraeus plicatilis), is known locally as banak and endemic to Cagayan River, the streams of Cagayan Valley and the river systems of Ilocos Sur and Abra.
Seasonal and said to have a unique taste, a kilo of ludong fetches between P4,000 and P5,000 making it the most expensive fish not only in the Philippines but possibly among the priciest in the world. It is also dubbed as the “President’s Fish,” enjoyed only by those who can afford.
According to a study made by the Bureau of Fisheries and Aquatic Resources (BFAR), ludong production has consistently declined over the years from around 1.3 million metric tons recorded in 1973.
Reduced size
Not only was there a drop in ludong population, there was also a reduction in the size of the fish, the agency said.
According to BFAR data, an adult ludong weighed as much as 2.4 kg in the previous years. As of 2009, the average size was down to 250 grams.
“Specimens bought for research purposes were smaller in size and there was hardly anything available,” said Dr. Evelyn Ame, research chief of BFAR in Cagayan Valley.
According to the DA, the species is classified catadromous, which means it thrives in freshwater but migrates to marine or seawater to spawn. It is a herbivorous fish that feeds on algae living on rocks near river rapids.
Its known habitats in Cagayan Valley are in the Upper Pinakaanan River in the towns of Jones, San Agustin and San Mariano in the province of Isabela, Addalem River in Aglipay, Quirino and Dasimpit rapids also in Jones.
Ludong migrates to the ocean to breed, swimming to saltwater to spawn two to six days a year from October to November and returning to upstream ponds after.
Fishermen usually catch the fish from October to January, when the rains swell the Cagayan River. The ludong migration coincides with this phenomenon.
Years of unregulated catching of ludong and the destruction of its habitats and even climate change have led to the decline of its population.
This led to the issuance of Fisheries Administrative Order (FAO) No. 31, which prohibits the capture, purchase, sale, preparation and serving of ludong for private and public consumption during its seasonal migration.
‘Oplan Sagip Ludong’
As part of its effort to increase the ludong population, the DA also implemented “Oplan Sagip Ludong” anchored on research, conservation and protection, and intensified information and education campaign.
The DA said it would call for the local governments to enact ordinances enforcing a closed season banning the catching of ludong in their areas.
DA-BFAR regional director Jovita Ayson said they also asked the DA to impose a bigger fine for people catching the endangered fish.
“We have stipulated a penalty of P80,000 compared to P200 in the old FAO,” she noted.
Fishy behavior
The DA said it would also conduct research on the fish, noting that there was not much information on the species’ activities and behavior.
“We shall conduct research on breeding in captivity and population genetics, as soon as we can have live samples of ludong in time with its spawning run this October,” Ayson said. With a report from Lawrence de Guzman, Inquirer Research